The Wonderful Life of Elsa Peretti

This week, it was announced that acclaimed Tiffany & Co designer, Elsa Peretti, passed away in her sleep at age 80. The model, philanthropist and iconic jewellery designer left quite the legacy, with the brand naming her "A masterful artisan" who "revolutionized the world of design and forever changed the way women wore jewellery," in a statement made on Instagram.

The Italian-born beauty began her career as a model, working initially in Barcelona before being lured over to the US with the help of Wilhelmina Cooper. She quickly fell into the New York City art scene in the 60s and 70s, becoming part of the glamourous crowd that frequented Studio 54, the likes of which included Andy Warhol, Cher, Donald Trump and her long-time friend Halston.

It was during this era that she was romantically linked to photographer Helmut Newton, who took this iconic snap of Peretti in a Playboy bunny Halloween costume, shot atop a New York skyscraper.

Her sidestep into jewellery design came after finding inspiration at a flea market and taking her first design, a small bud vase, to a silversmith in Spain. The piece was worn at a Giorgio di Sant’Angelo fashion show, and the rest is history. Her star quickly rose, initially designing jewellery for Halston before winning the 1971 Coty Award for jewellery design and opening a boutique in Bloomingdales.

In 1974, Tiffany & Co came knocking, and by 1979, Peretti was the famous retailer’s lead designer. The luxury jeweller had taken a 25-year hiatus from using silver before Peretti joined the family. Sterling Silver was her material of choice and one which helped expand Tiffany & Co’s reach to a younger generation. She later branched out, incorporating jade, lacquer and diamonds into her unique designs.

Her first Tiffany & Co collection sold out overnight, and from there, she went on to create over 30 more coveted collections. She became widely known for her "never-before-seen organic aesthetic—bold and powerful, yet feminine and unpretentious."

Peretti derived inspiration from various sources, including everyday objects such as vases and beans, the sculptures of Henry Moore and Alexander Calder and, of course, the human body with her classic Bone Cuff collection.

To pay homage to the designer whose “legacy will remain a constant inspiration for generations to come”, we have selected 3 of her finest pieces.

Elsa Peretti’s Iconic Tiffany and Co Designs

Bottle Jug Pendant

This updated version of her first-ever jewellery design is as eye-catching as ever. The classic pendant necklace comprises a 26-inch 18k gold chain and a small hand-carved green jade jug.

Medium Bone Cuff

elsa peretti tiffany bone cuff — Tiffany, Medium Bone Cuff ($2,200)

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Another iconic design is the Bone Cuff, an asymmetrical and sensuous design inspired by human bones seen in a 17th Century church. The wrist-cinching cuff, worn often as a pair, is 61mm wide and made of sterling silver.

Open Heart Pendant

The famously just-off-centre heart is a trademark Peretti piece and one of her most celebrated and successful icons. The simple, evocative heart shape is 18k gold and sits delicately on a 16-inch chain.

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